For the second year in a row, whispers about Maria Grazia Chiuri's departure from Dior have been circulating. Speculation suggests that Jonathan Anderson of Loewe and JW Anderson might take her place. However, Chiuri's recent haute couture collection has only fueled the rumors, as it seemed to reflect a desire to leave a bold, if not divisive, final mark.
Chiuri's latest haute couture show was a mix of the expected and the unexpected. While the collection featured impeccable tailoring and luxurious fabrics, it lacked the innovative silhouettes many had hoped for. Instead, it leaned heavily on Dior's established codes: structured dresses, round necklines, and shoulder-focused designs. Though these elements are undeniably classic, they left some longing for a fresh perspective.
One of the most talked-about aspects of the show was the models' hairstyles—spiked mohawks that clashed with the traditionally feminine aesthetic of Dior. Some interpreted this as a feminist statement, challenging stereotypes about women's appearances. However, the message remained ambiguous, leaving the audience divided.
Chiuri's recurring fascination with Greek-inspired footwear also drew mixed reactions. The collection featured sandals with intricate leather straps and kitten heels, a nod to ancient Olympian styles. While these designs may appeal to influencers and trendsetters, they risk becoming a fleeting trend rather than a timeless addition to Dior's legacy.
The color palette stayed true to Dior's heritage, with shades of gray, white, gold, black, and beige dominating the collection. A standout was a striking blue coat with fur detailing, which added a modern touch. Trend-driven elements like lace blouses, bow accents, and puff sleeves also made appearances, hinting at what might dominate fashion in the coming year.
Despite moments of beauty—gold embroidery on dramatic black gowns, voluminous capes, and floral embellishments—the show's overall message remained unclear. The juxtaposition of playful, gothic-inspired outfits with the models' mohawks left the audience puzzled about Chiuri's vision.
Rumors suggest that Chiuri's final collection for Dior will debut on May 27, marking the end of an era. As the fashion world awaits the fall-winter 25/26 season, all eyes are on what comes next for both Chiuri and the iconic fashion house.
